The sprawling town of Chiang Mai is Thailand's second-largest city (with Bangkok being the largest), set in the lush mountains of Chiang Mai Province. Founded in 1296 as the capital of the Lannathai kingdom, it has over 300 Buddhist temples, many dating back to the 13th century. It offers spectacular scenery, and is a great base for trekking, rafting, elephant riding and hill tribe visits. Luxury resorts in the area offer pampering spa breaks and Thai cooking schools .

THE CHEDI
123 Charoenprathet Road (00 66 53 253 333; fax: 253 352; www. ghmhotels.com).Set in the heart of Chiang Mai, this tranquil hotel has 84 rooms and suites, the best ones overlooking the Mae Ping River. The restaurant is set in an old colonial building that was once the British Consulate, and serves some of the best Indian food in town, as well as more traditional Thai dishes. Facilities include a 32-metre pool and a spa. ££

D2
100 Chang Klan Road (00 66 53 999 999; fax: 999 900; www.d2hotels.com).Set in the heart of Chiang Mai's bustling night bazaar, this is the city's first hip hotel. Its 'chic minimalist' décor and modern European design include quirky touches such as orange silk balls on the beds in all 131 rooms and test-tube-shaped toiletry bottles. The restaurant serves a selection of modern international dishes and the Deverana Spa offers a range of treatments based on Thai traditions. £

FOUR SEASONS RESORT CHIANG MAI
Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road, Mae Rim (00 66 53 298 181; fax: 298 190; www.fourseasons.com/chiangmai). Formerly known as The Regent, the resort has 64 Lanna-style pavilions each with a private outdoor veranda overlooking terraced rice fields, and 16 'residences' which feature fireplaces, kitchens and plunge pools. Facilities include a pool, tennis court, a health club, cooking school and spa. The Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai was featured in the Gold List 2007. £££

MANDARIN ORIENTAL DHARA DHEVI
Sankampaeng Road Moo 1 T. Tasala A. Muang (00 66 53 888 888; fax: 888 928;www.mandarinoriental.com/chiangmai). Set within 60 acres of exotic plantations and natural landscapes, and built as a tribute to Lanna architecture, the Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi has 144 suites, villas and residences, three restaurants, tennis and squash courts, a Thai cooking school, a cultural centre and a shopping village. The hotel's Mandalay Palace-style spa offers a wide range of therapies including locally inspired Thai herbal mud wraps and body polishes. The Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi was featured in the Gold List 2007. £££

THE RACHAMANKHA
6 Rachamankha 9, T.Phra Singh (00 66 53 904 111; fax: 904 114; www.rachamankha.com). Set within the walls of Chiang Mai old town and situated next to Wat Phra Singh, the city's most important temple, this architect-owned hotel has been built to include elements of Chinese and Lanna architecture. There are 24 rooms and suites, each filled with Oriental furniture. Facilities include a Thai-Burmese fusion restaurant, Northern Thai antiquities gallery and pool. £

Known in Thailand as the Rose of the North, there is plenty to see in Chiang Mai. Its 300 Buddhist temples include Wat Chiang Mun, the oldest in the city, Wat Phra Singh Luang, and Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, a magnificent temple which is the symbol of Chiang Mai. Although Bangkok is perhaps Thailand's most famous shopping centre, many visitors now prefer Chiang Mai, as the shops are concentrated in a smaller area and there is a good range of quality things to buy, especially handicrafts. For souvenir shopping, and atmosphere, the Chang Klan Road's Night Market is a must. The Banyen Folk Art Museum, off the Wua Lai Road, sells antiques as well as showcasing fascinating artefacts.

The gateway to Northern Thailand, the city is also a good base for rafting and trekking trips. From the Taeng Dao elephant training centre in the Mae Taeng Valley, you can take rides into the nearby forests. You can arrange hill-tribe visits at the Hill Tribe Research Centre on the Chiang Mai University campus.

AIRPORT
Chiang Mai International Airport. (00 66 53 270 222; www2.airportthai.co.th)

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
The following airlines fly to Bangkok, from where it's about an hour's flight to Chiang Mai with Thai Airways or other local carriers.

British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com)
Qantas (08457 747 767; www.qantas.com.au)
Thai Airways (0870 606 0911; www.thaiair.com)

Avoid the rainy season between May and October, when it can also be unbearably muggy. Wonderful for winter sun.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand, aka TAT, can be found at 105/1 Chiang Mai-Lamphun Road (00 66 53 248 604; fax: 248 605; www.tourismthailand.org). Open Mon to Sun, 8.30am to 4.30pm.