For centuries, Beijing has been seen as China's promised land. Originally a walled bastion for emperors and officials, it remains a majestic political and architectural marvel. The Chinese capital is gearing up for the 2008 Olympics on a grand scale, with the World Tourism Organisation predicting China will be the most visited country on the planet by 2020. Beijing is adding 200 more hotels to its existing 600, including major new developments by Starwood and Hyatt. Factory 798, a Bauhaus industrial complex in north-east Beijing, built in the 1950s by East German engineers, is now a collection of galleries, cafés, bars and restaurants. The Forbidden City, home to 24 successive emperors, was off-limits to Beijing's citizens and visitors for more than 500 years and now, along with neighbouring Tian'anmen Square, it's the hottest district in the city.

GRAND HYATT BEIJING
1 East Chang An Avenue (00 86 108518 1234; www.beijing.grand.hyatt.com). The Grand Hyatt is situated on the prestigious and central East Chang An Avenue. A curved glass exterior and white-marble lobby lend calm. The 825 bedrooms are all elegantly designed, with all mod-cons. Try Nobel Court for Cantonese and southern cooking; Made in China for northern cooking; Da Giorgio for Italian and the Grand Café for 24-hour dining. The huge flood-lit indoor pool is more Vegas than Beijing. ££

LU SONG YUAN HOTEL
22 Banchang Lane, Kuanjie (00 86 10 6404 0436; www.the-silk-road.com/hotel). Deep in the Courtyard Preservation Area, a maze of alleys known as hutongs. The décor dates back to the Qing dynasty. Expect to see backpackers and anyone on a budget looking for a bit of old Beijing. The 58 rooms, including 24 overlooking a courtyard, are pretty basic but the period features make up for that. Beijing standards such as dumplings and Peking Duck. The mix of affordability and traditional charm is rare. On the down side the hotel is often fully-booked and it is getting busier in the run up to the 2008 Olympics. £

RAFFLES BEIJING HOTEL
33 East Chang An Avenue (www.Beijing.raffles.com). Neoclassical Raffles Beijing Hotel reopened in June 2006 after a year's restoration. Its 171 rooms and suites include nine Personality Suites named after Sun Yat Sen, George Bernard Shaw and others. Jaan serves excellent French food and East 33 offers 33 kinds of dumpling. ££

SHANGRI-LA'S KERRY CENTRE HOTEL
1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District (00 86 10 6561 8833; www.shangri-la.com). Part of the Kerry Centre complex in the heart of Beijing's Chaoyang business district. The hotel has played host to local and foreign CEOs as well as Donald Rumsfeld and Manchester United football team. While not especially stylish, the 487 rooms and suites are bright, comfortable, airy and modern. Horizon Chinese Restaurant offers Cantonese and Szechuan dishes, while the Centro Bar & Lounge is always buzzing. Service is of the highest standard: attentive and gracious. £

THE RED CAPITAL RESIDENCE
9 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng District (00 86 10 8401 8886; www.redcapitalclub.com.cn). Within the historic Dongsi district, a shortish cab ride from Tian'anmen Square. This hotel is so small and discreet, it feels as if you might be the only person staying there, it is also very tricky to find. There are five individually decorated suites: two Concubine's Private Courtyards, two Author's Suites and the Chairman's Suite. Breakfast is served in your room and the popular restaurant, Red Capital Club, run by the same owner, is nearby. £

CONFUCIAN HERITAGE RESTAURANT
3 Liulichangxi Jie (00 86 10 6303 0689. Good for Shandong cuisine.

FANGSHAN RESTAURANT
1 Wenjin Jei (00 86 10 6401 1879). Located in the picturesque setting of Beihai Park and specialises in imperial recipes.

GARDEN OF DELIGHTS
53 Dong An Men Dajie (www.gardenofdelights.com.cn). Antonio Ochoa-Piccardo, the architect of Cantilever House at Kempinski's Commune by the Great Wall hotel, has opened the Latin American restaurant Garden of Delights with a menu by consulting chef Edgar Leal of Cacao in Miami. Try the salmon ceviche and Argentine matambre.

RBL
53 Dong An Men Street (www.rbl-china.com). Handel Lee's all-white RBL features traditional sushi and inventive Japanese-Western dishes such as teriyaki, duck breast and sushi wrapped in daikon (Japanese radish).

THE BOROM PIMAN THAI RESTAURANT
Holiday Inn Lido (00 86 10 6437 6688). Serves superb food.

THE GONGDELIN VEGATARIAN RESTAURANT
158 Qianmennan Dajie (00 86 10 6511 2542). This will be a revelation for vegetarians and carnivores alike; order the ‘Peacocks in Pride’ or the ‘Fire Singeing the Snow-Capped Mountains’.

THE LI FAMILY RESTAURANT
11 Yangfang Hutong (00 86 10 6618 0107). A tiny place near the northern lakes which specialises in imperial recipes.

THE OLD PEKING GRILL IN THE GRAND HOTEL BEIJING
35 Dongchang’an Dajie, just off Tianamen Square (00 86 10 6513 7788). Serves very good Western food for those of you missing the flavours of home.

YUYUAN RESTAURANT
Near the southwest gate of Ritan Park (00 86 10 6502 5985). Good for Sichuan cuisine.

ICE HOUSE
53 Xi Pei Lu, Dong An Men Street (www.rbl-china.com). Blues-jazz bar Ice House, below RBL, was once the Forbidden City's ice-storage depot, and some of the original, 16-metre thick, sawdust-filled walls remain. It has regular live shows and stand-up comedy.

For those wanting to explore the fascinating world of Beijing Opera, the Liyuan Theatre in Qianmen Hotel, 175 Yong'an Lu (00 86 10 6301 6688), is a great place to start. The nightly performances have English subtitles. Tickets from about £6 - £13.

Lao She Teahouse, on the third floor at 3 Qianmenxi Dajie, hosts variety performances of traditional music, acrobats, and skits served up with tea and snacks.

There are endless bars, clubs and discos in Beijing, consult the numerous free listings magazines available at your hotel for the latest venues.

CELADON POTTERY
72 Dong Huamen Avenue (00 86 10 6527 5754). The jade-green pottery at Celadon Story comes from Long Quan in Zhejiang, an area where celadon has been crafted for 1,700 years. Ornaments and crockery sell alongside pieces by master craftsmen.

DRAGONFLY
60 Dong Huamen Avenue (www.dragonfly.net.cn). You can't get a better foot massage than at Dragonfly (owned by Singaporean star hairdresser Georgie Yam). Feet are pampered with a herbal bath followed by a rubdown and scrub.

SHANGHAI XU
AA10 Oriental Plaza, East Chang An Avenue (00 86 10 8518 6376). The dressmakers at Shanghai Xu can tailor a cheongsam in six hours. The shop specialises in modern designs but produces a traditional collection every Chinese New Year.

AIRPORT
Beijing's Capital airport is 27km from the centre of town.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK
British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com), Cathay Pacific (020 8834 8888; www.cathaypacific.com) and Air China (www.air-china.co.uk) have flights from London to Beijing.

WHO TO GO WITH
CTS Horizons (020 7836 9911) operates many trips to China, including a nine-day, three-centre tour to Beijing, Xian (home of Terracotta army) and Chengde, taking in sights such as the Forbidden City, the Great Wall, the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace. CTS can also arrange tailor-made itineraries.
British Airways Holidays (0870 242 4245) has a similar short package, with four nights in Beijing and three nights in Xian. It can also arrange a trip taking in Beijing, Hong Kong and Shanghai.

In winter, temperatures rarely rise above freezing, while in August they reach 40°C. Spring (March, April, May) and autumn (September, October, November) strike a happy medium.

Chinese International Travel Service (CITS), or the tourist hotline (00 86 10 6513 0828) run by the Beijing Tourist Administration. Open 24 hours.

Always consult the Foreign Office before travelling.