The stunning Champ de Mars course is nestled between the lush, green forests of the Moka Mountains and downtown Port Louis, the country's capital. From some vantage points in the enclosure, it is possible to see the vivid turquoise ocean that laps the Port Louis harbour. At the north side of the racetrack, one can find the ornate Lam Soon Temple, scented with delicate jasmine incense. It is one of three Chinese temples in Port Louis, and its gold and crimson lacquered interior is worth a look.
While the physical beauty of the course makes it memorable, the electric atmosphere of race day encourages Mauritians to make the weekly pilgrimage. In Mauritius, racing is hardly a staid affair. Jockeys, trainers, and owners have celebrity status. Most of the stables sign jockeys from South Africa, France, or England, although there are a few home-grown favourites. Race day anticipation begins every Saturday morning. Tens of thousands of Mauritians migrate to the outskirts of Port Louis, to the glorious Champ de Mars. Tourists can easily get a taste of the island's vibrant cultural mix by wandering through the grounds.
Punters circle the Chinese bookies' red-topped kiosks. Race day is also big business for the country's food sellers, and hungry spectators can sample a range of delicious Indian appetisers for no more than a few pounds. Official race day programmes are in French, with a smattering of English, and everyone uses the local Créole dialect. (Mauritius was settled in turn by the Portuguese, Dutch, French, and the British, and is now inhabited predominantly by Indians, Créole and Chinese.)
But the real excitement begins around noon, with the day's first parading of the horses. Visitors crowd into the stands overlooking the paddock ring, expertly assessing each horse's chance of victory. As Mauritius lacks its own breeding programme, most horses are imported from neighbouring South Africa. As the horses are led away to the race, locals stream to the track, and jostle for the best view. From the bang of the starter's pistol, thousands of young Mauritians press up against the rails, jumping and screaming Allez, allez', in scenes reminiscent of a rock concert. The sound reaches deafening levels, with the thunder of horses' hooves and feverish cries from the crowd.
After the horses cross the finish line within seconds of each other, spectators hold their breath and wait for the winner to be announced. When the name of the victorious rider is verified, punters quickly head back to the bookies' kiosks to retry their fortunes, and a lucky few collect their winnings. This ritual is repeated seven more times throughout the increasingly hot afternoon, and Mauritians somehow maintain their stamina until the last race at around 6pm. As the sun begins to set, race goers slowly depart the grounds, and return home exhausted, but exhilarated. A day's racing at the Champ de Mars represents the best of Mauritius - its gorgeous landscapes, its cultural diversity, and its joie de vivre.
Louise Nelson visited Mauritius in May 2003
When in Mauritius, you can pick up the club's weekly French-language magazine, RACETIME, from virtually any newsagent or bookshop. The highlight of the season takes place in late August when the marathon Maiden Plate race is run over 2600m (2843 yards).