The pace of Gothenburg is significantly slower than in Stockholm and the people are relaxed and friendly in a way rarely found in large cities. Gothenburg enjoys long balmy summers and easy access to Sweden's stunning beaches at Halmstad and the fishing islands Tjörn and Marstrand, all of which are less than an hour drive away. Of course one can always sail there if inclined.
Sailing like skiing, is second nature to the Swedes. Along Götaplasten in Gothenburg, the Sea God Poseidon watches over his subjects, the ancestors of the 10th Century Vikings who sailed from the southern shores. Then, as night closes in, harbour-side bars light candles, enveloping you in an intimate embrace. Days can be spent exploring the archipelago, if one cant find a private island, you can at least seek out your own personal, sun-drenched rock. Perfect if like Greta Garbo, you 'vant to be alone'.
'The nature' as the Swedes call it, plays a huge part in their culture. However life is not all forests, berries and red-painted cottages, away from the capital. With a directional sense of style and cosmopolitan outlook, Gothenburg leads in the fashion stakes and has a magnetic art scene of its own. Wandering along the cobbled streets of the 'The Aveny' Gothenburgs department stores and boutiques beckon. Café culture has hit hard and Gothenburg's beautiful young things sip Pripps beer and eat crayfish beside the fountains before heading out to trendy jazz-cum-funk bars like 'Neffertiti' and 'Underground'. Near the water the sea-borne slip into driftwood-floored bars, whilst landlubbers plan their evening on the terrace. The Viking game of 'Kubb' where you attempt to knock down your opponents wooden pins, is a good way to while away the hours before it gets dark, which is often not until nine or ten in the summer months.
With its tree-lined streets and parks, getting lost in Gothenburg is a pleasure. If seriously lost, there always seems to be someone keen to direct you towards the 'Ål Halan' (literally meaning beer court). And if you are lucky after a few beers and aquavits explain the Swedes relationships with their Scandinavian neighbours. Good, clean competition against the Norwegians and the Danes, and the Venus-envy they say they receive due to their green pastures and beautiful women!
And maybe its true, I ponder as I journey along the E6, north to Oslo.
Natalie Amos visited Gothenburg in June 2002
