|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
TIME-TRAVELLING IN DUBROVNIK |
| CROATIA By James Gard |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
It seems odd that in one of the world's newest countries I was deliberately going back in time, but Dubrovnik is one of those magical places that puts you under its spell instantly.
Croatians are extremely proud of this historical city, which is a strange mix of the past and the present. Even though it looks like a medieval town, its inhabitants stroll around confidently in the latest fashions. As I came across from Italy on the ferry, the styles and attitudes seemed exactly the same.
There are actually two Dubrovniks, one which looks like a typical Mediterranean coastal town, and the other being the beautiful walled historical city, which, seen from above, looks like a hexagon-shaped jigsaw piece. I was completely taken aback by the sheer beauty of the old town as I had arrived along the main road with no idea what to expect. Suddenly I was faced with the imposing Pile Gate, and what looks like a long stone drawbridge. Once within those city walls, there's so much to see it's difficult to know where to explore first. My eyes took in every detail of the medieval and Renaissance buildings. Wherever I went I always seemed to end up in the wide cobbled main street known as the Placa. And with no cars or motorbikes allowed in the old town, it's easy to imagine yourself back in the 17th century, when locals milled around the main concourse going about their daily business.
But the most impressive sight was still waiting for me: the walk around the city walls, which are 2km long and, in some places, 25m high. The view across the city is breathtaking and changed depending on which part of the wall I was standing on. The first thing to hit me was the overwhelming redness of the roof-tiles. Standing high up over the rooftops, it didn't take a great leap of imagination to picture Dubrovnik as a thriving Renaissance port. I looked out over the harbour to the sea, a view that takes in the densely forested islands nearby. I took a trip the next day, on a lovingly restored wooden fishing boat, to Lokrum Island, and coming back I imagined what invaders must have felt like when faced with this sturdy fortress.
Considering how well-preserved everything seems, it was a shock to me to find out how much misfortune has befallen the city, from earthquakes and Napoleonic invasion to heavy shelling in the 1990s Balkan War. Talking to locals I found out that three-quarters of the buildings had been damaged by shells. Ten years of UN-sponsored repair work and loving attention to detail has restored Dubrovnik to the state I had assumed was natural.
Even in May, when the sun went down it was still a perfect temperature for eating outdoors. There are a lot of good restaurants to choose from in the old town, but I tried to find somewhere off the main concourse. As I walked up the steep backstreets and alleys, friendly cafés and tavernas seemed to spring up everywhere. Just by chance I stumbled upon a bar perched on the cliff-tops, and enjoyed a cool beer looking across the Adriatic sea.
After the tour around the walls, the highlight of my trip was a classical concert in the Rector's Palace. This 15th-century church, framed by high arches in the grand entrance, is an incredibly elegant setting for listening to music. I would recommend sitting on the marble balcony overlooking the performers for extra atmosphere. As I filed out with the crowd into these peaceful cobbled streets I thought of how difficult it would be to leave this time-warp and re-enter the 21st century.
James Gard travelled to Dubrovnik in May 2000
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| RELATED INFORMATION |
|
|
|
|
|
|
