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FAIRYTALE WEEKEND - CARCASSONNE |
| FRANCE By Samuel Warmington |
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Mention a weekend break on the continent to most people and they'll think of Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin or Brussels. While all are worth a visit, there is so much to see and do in each one that a weekend does scant justice to any of them. Add in the fact that all are unquestionably northern European and therefore generally as cold and wet as the south of England, and you begin to appreciate that there are other options to consider. And one that I can recommend absolutely without reservation is Carcassonne.
Nestling half an hour's drive from the Mediterranean coast in south-west France, Carcassonne has warm, or at least clement, weather for most of the year. (I could point out here that when I went in May it was a howling gale and horizontal rain, but it was unprecedented bad weather for the time of year.) The town itself is served by a small (and therefore blessedly quick) airport, and transfer time to the centre of town is no more than 20 minutes.
On my own arrival, as I drove through town, my heart began to sink. It looked a fairly run-of-the-mill 20th-century French town certainly nothing exceptional. But then I reached the river, and standing on the opposite bank was one of the most breathtaking sights in Europe, the old medieval town of Carcassonne, known as La Cité.
Dominated by the castle, this ancient walled town is astonishingly beautiful. To give you an idea of its appearance, it was said to be Walt Disney's inspiration for the castle in Sleeping Beauty. La Cité itself is probably no more than half a mile from one side to the other, and as such, its narrow cobbled streets can become rather touristy. But take a turn down a quiet side street and you can all of a sudden find yourself alone in a beautiful square, or standing on the old battlements looking out over endless miles of vineyards.
We were staying in the Hotel de la Cité, which was absolutely first rate. Luxurious, comfortable, and with superb facilities, our room also had a magnificent view first over the hotel's private garden and then out over the town as a whole. Although we didn't eat in there, it's said to have a superb restaurant as well. The particular charm of the hotel, though, was its location, in the heart of the old town. Wherever you are staying, try and find somewhere within the old town walls, as it is far nicer than the humdrum everyday streets of the rest of the town.
On a weekend break, Carcassonne itself can be explored easily in a day. We looked at the church, wandered around the town, explored the castle, did a full loop of the battlements, and investigated the shops (a mixture of fascinating local craft and tourist tat) while still finding time for a long and relaxed lunch. If you have two full days, you can either drive down to the coast, or go wine tasting. Characteristically, we chose the latter option (you can often arrange it through your hotel) and had a fascinating tour of an excellent vineyard, and then did more than our fair share of sampling!
On a cautionary note, I would say that if you hate crowds, avoid the peak season and French national holidays on a rainy weekend in May it was busy enough, in the July sunshine of Bastille Day it would probably feel like rush hour on the London Underground. Otherwise, I would say that this is a gem that remains largely unknown to most British travellers, and is certainly worth a visit for its history, its culture and its superb architecture. Oh, and a fair amount of the local wine helps, too.
Samuel Warmington visited Carcassonne in May 2001
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