THE FACTS ABOUT TAJ TASHI

Bhutan Bhutan

There's a mood of radical change in Thimphu, capital of the serene, semi-secret Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan. Although a new king will be crowned this summer, democracy is replacing the country's medieval system of absolute monarchy, and the Taj Tashi, which opened in January, encapsulates this colourful juxtaposition of old and new. Until now the few luxury hotels permitted in Bhutan have been exclusive retreats in the countryside, but the Taj Group's hotel is located boldly in the heart of the capital. Taj Tashi is an imposing building that dominates the skyline of the low-rise city. The building echoes the mighty structure of Bhutan's dzongs (fortress-monasteries), but in fact there are only 66 bedrooms, sleekly furnished in a mix of traditional and contemporary, with handmade rugs and lattice panelling of local blue pine. In the public areas, intricate murals draw on traditional emblems, principally clouds, dorjes (symbolic thunderbolts) and dhungs (horn-like musical instruments). Chig Je Gye restaurant serves Bhutanese cuisine (steamed dumplings, chillies in cheese sauce) and there are also Continental and Asian restaurants, a tea lounge, a bar, an indoor pool and a spa that offers hot-stone treatments. WHEN TO GO Spring (March to May) and early winter (November and December) for clear skies and a sublime quality of light. ROOM TO BOOK The spacious corner suites on the fourth floor have the best views. Samten Lam, Thimphu, Bhutan (00 975 2 33 66 99; www.tajhotels.com). Doubles from US$330 Find out more about Bhutan in our destination guide