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HOTEL CÔTÉ COUR SL

BEIJING, CHINA

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Even if this 14-bedroom inn carved out of a Ming-dynasty house did not exude style and charm in equal measure, it would deserve recognition for its hospitable Chinese owner and her exceptional staff. Guests lost in Beijing's labyrinthine lanes are sure to be rescued, and top restaurant tables can be secured. The woman behind Beijing's sleekest boutique hotel could teach big-brand concierges a thing or two about personal service. Set around a leafy courtyard with a fish-filled lily pond, the hotel's bedrooms have vibrant Tibetan carpets on antique brick floors and raised beds made five-star-fabulous with fluffy goose-down duvets and headboards engraved with Chinese poetry. The compact bathrooms have rain showers and generous bath supplies. Powerful space heaters and air conditioners introduce contemporary comfort to the traditional spaces, while satellite television and speedy Wi-Fi access serve travellers' technological needs. An imposing, red-lacquer door leads to a welcoming lounge where walls are hung with attention-grabbing works by contemporary Chinese artists. The rooftop deck provides glimpses of the historic lane that was once home to artists of the imperial Ming court. Omelettes, French coffee and homemade muffins at breakfast are outdone only by the delicious dumplings served for lunch. Those who wish to dine out can trust the staff's recommendations on where to eat along the lane. Walk it off by heading to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, a 30-minute stroll along Beijing's buzzing avenues.

WHEN TO GO
May and June or early autumn for lingering in the courtyard.

ROOM TO BOOK
Deluxe rooms have deep-soak bathtubs and considerably more wiggle room at minimal extra cost.

70 Yan Yue Hu Tong, Dong Cheng Qu, Beijing (00 86 10 6512 8020; www.hotelcotecoursl.com). Doubles from £92; deluxe rooms from £124

Find out more about Beijing in our city guide

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