THE FACTS ABOUT HOSPES MADRID

Spain Madrid

Madrid's hectic drive to modernity has meant that many of its newer hotels have forgotten about the past. Not so the airy, friendly Hospes Madrid. Its location, overlooking the historic Puerta de Alcalá is unimpeachable. The hotel occupies an impressive, rambling, five-floor townhouse built in 1883 for the widow of one-time Spanish prime minister General Prim, assassinated in 1870. The naturally lit entrance hall, an introduction to the charms within, was once where the carriages entered. At one end there is now an intimate, glass-covered water-garden/patio into which sunlight streams - just the place for a cool drink in blistering summertime Madrid. Pale shades of polished granite and beige set the tone throughout the hotel, with dark-wood floors a reminder of the building's former austerity; the original staircases and doors, too, have been maintained and restored. Oak beams in the upper rooms further enhance the air of well-to-do solidity. But otherwise, it's all mod cons, with formal but friendly service. Only the odd floral touch - in the lampshades, the bedding and the wrought-iron work of the balconies - breaks the clean simplicity of the design. The sizeable, white-marble bathrooms are fitted with vast, oval tubs and rain showers. The somewhat cramped Senzone restaurant serves designer cuisine from Cordoban chef Paco Morales. The Bodyna Spa is the hotel's other distinguishing feature; lying in its underground Jacuzzi pool, surrounded by dark teak, you could be a million miles from the bustle of central Madrid. WHEN TO GO Spring, when the nearby Retiro park is blooming. ROOM TO BOOK Room 102, a suite with twin views out over the Puerta del Alcalá. Plaza de la Independencia 3, Madrid (00 34 91 432 2911; www.fuenso.com). Doubles from 245 Euros; room 102 from 1,070 Euros Find out more about Madrid in our city guide