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The Franco-Oriental façade as characterless as any state building in Beijing gives
little indication of the hotel's distinguished, colourful past. In the early 1900s, it claimed to be 'the only hotel de luxe in the Far East', where bedrooms
had private baths, flushing toilets and even telephones. This was the place to dance, amuse and host important people (nine new Personality Suites now honour some of those who have stayed at the hotel, including George Bernard Shaw and Henri Cartier-Bresson). But the impeccable restoration by the Singapore-based Raffles Hotels & Resorts does more than bring back the romance of yore; this is also
an outstanding example of how heritage buildings should be conserved and revived with integrity.
It has a pervading sense of history thanks to a careful interpretation of Beaux Arts style (result: grandeur without the ostentation), and tastefully appointed accoutrements and objets d'art such as the faithfully restored, century-old Bösendorfer grand piano in the lobby. All 171 bedrooms and suites are sumptuously decorated and there are 70 Raffles Inc Executive Rooms for business people, all with access to a club lounge with wonderfully helpful butlers. The modern French cuisine at Jaan is spectacular, and the
city's key historical attractions the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square are nearby.
WHEN TO GO
Autumn (October and November).
ROOM TO BOOK
For a sense of place, any of the nine Personality Suites; those with emperor-sized wallets should book the opulent Tang Dynasty Suite.
CONTACT
33 East Chang An Avenue, Beijing, China (00 86
10 6526 3388; www.Beijing.raffles.com).
COST
Doubles from 1,941 yuan (about £130); Personality Suites from about £265; Tang Dynasty Suite from £855
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