If you want the best-ever views of the night sky, go to the Great Karoo, the arid and remote heartland of South Africa. Samara Private Game Reserve covers 28,000 hectares of virgin wilderness, encompassing mountains and high valleys that descend to the vast plains of Camdeboo surrounding Graaff-Reinet, a whitewashed town famous for its 18th-century architecture. The reserve opened in November 2005 after many years spent rehabilitating the former farmland (mostly sheep) and restocking with cheetah (a major attraction here), rare mountain zebra, white rhino and plains game such as kudu, eland and black wildebeest. You can be quite alone at Samara, out of sight of anything man-made. At night you will have the Milky Way for company, and by day wild animals and a breathtaking landscape. Ask about the fossils dating back 250 million years, and the 700-year-old shepherd trees. There are daily game drives in open Land Rovers and there's a pool to cool off in. Three Karoo Suites are in cottages a few steps from the main lodge, one of the original farmhouses, which houses three Lodge Suites. All are decorated in a quietly updated colonial style, reflecting Eastern Cape history. There are fantastic views from the wraparound veranda.
WHEN TO GO
Any time: summers are hot and sunny, winters are warm and sunny.
ROOM TO BOOK
Karoo Suite 3, the newest and most comfortable (and kudu gather nearby in the late afternoon).
CONTACT
Graaff-Reinet, Eastern Cape, South Africa (00 27 49 891 0880; www.samara.co.za).
COST
Doubles from R2,000 (about £185)
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