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After a prolonged gestation period, an old star has been reborn on a leafy square opposite the Capitolio, Havanas version of the dome in Washington DC. The original Hotel Saratoga, carved out of an 1880s neoclassical building, had its heyday in the 1930s but closed shortly after the revolution. After an ignoble period as a boarding house, it was left to rot. With few original features left to save, the new hotel has been built from scratch behind the old façade. It echoes the original (the central atrium, the shutters, the grand entrance) and there is much marble in evidence, as well as fabulously reproduced 1930s lamps. But this is a modern sanctuary rather than a quirkily restored landmark, and it has aspirations to international standards. An impressive collection of contemporary Cuban art decorates the public spaces, and the 96 bedrooms are either colonial in style (huge French windows with slatted shutters, floor tiles lovingly copied from the originals, mahogany furniture from Spain), or contemporary. The bathrooms are smallish, but impressively finished. At the time of
our visit, one month after opening, we
had some reservations about the service, but by Christmas the feedback was very positive. The location couldnt be better for sightseeing, and the rooftop pool and bar area, with views over crumbling old palaces to the sea, is a wonderful place to hang
out. The Anacoana restaurant is named after Cubas famous all-girl salsa band who
were resident here in the 1930s. This is
by far the smartest new hotel in Havana
for years, providing levels of comfort other, admittedly more characterful, Havana hotels can only dream of.
WHEN TO GO
Preferably between November and April before it gets too hot.
ROOM TO BOOK
Any with a balcony overlooking the square.
CONTACT
Prado 603, Esquina a Dragones, La Habana Vieja, Cuba (00 53 7 868 1000; www.hotel-saratoga.com).
COST
Doubles from £150
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