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Top marks to the Four Seasons group for its well-executed renovation of one of Budapest's most prestigious landmark buildings. Stepping through the ornate iron 'Peacock' gates is like stepping back a century to when the Gresham Palace was a residential apartment building, with a young ladies' finishing school, literary café and cabaret run by a supposed British spy dubbed Xavier. After decades of decay under Communism, dozens of craftsmen and women were drafted in to restore the building's mosaics, stained glass and ceramics. Extraordinary attention to period detail, whether restored or original, has ensured design harmony throughout the building, and attentive but not fawning service lives up to the Four Seasons standard (our room-service waiter even refused a tip). The Páva Restaurant, offering upmarket modern Italian cuisine, is popular with Budapest's glitterati; but the more relaxed Twenties-style Gresham Café offers accomplished international-Hungarian cuisine, and easily wins on atmosphere, decor, and calorie-bomb cakes such as The Chocolate. Black marble bathrooms, a 12-metre lap pool (rather too warm), spa and sauna make the Four Seasons popular with both well-heeled tourists and locals splashing out on a treat.
WHEN TO GO
Spring or autumn
ROOM TO BOOK
One facing the Danube, the higher the better
CONTACT
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest, Roosevelt tér 5-6, Budapest, Hungary (00 361 268 6000; fax: 268 5000; www.fourseasons.com). Doubles from euro 319 |
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