THE FACTS ABOUT CASTELLO DI VICARELLO

Italy

It's remarkable that two of Italy's high-end novelties (the other being L'Andana) are both in the Maremma, Tuscany's southern coastal strip. Near the village of Sasso d'Ombrone, 35 minutes' drive north-east of Grosseto, Vicarello is a 12th-century feudal castle on a rocky spur with views south to Scansano and the sea. The atmosphere is that of a discreet house party, presided over by charming hosts Aurora and Carlo Baccheschi Berti. Aurora lived in Bali for 18 years, designing clothes and textiles. The imprint comes through in the five suites - three in the castle itself, two more in the grounds - which mix Balinese furniture with contemporary rural art. There are two swimming pools - which means that much of the time guests have one to themselves. Lavender, rosemary and a whole bank of ground-roses cover the slopes just below the castle, with terraces of olives and vines below. Though created by and for stressed city dwellers, there is nothing fake about this version of Arcadia: suites have real working fireplaces (it can get quite chilly here out of season) and breakfast - much of it based on produce made, grown or baked by Aurora - is served in a huge country kitchen. She also organises impromptu cooking courses. WHEN TO GO Vicarello usually benefits from cool breezes even in the height of summer - a good time to explore the nearby coast ROOM TO BOOK The Chiesina - a two-level suite in a chapel-like outhouse - is great for cocooning CONTACT Castello di Vicarello, Poggi del Sasso, Italy (tel/fax: 00 39 0564 990718; www.vicarello.it). Suites from euro 320; Chiesina suite from euro 750