THE FACTS ABOUT AMANKORA

Bhutan

As the first luxury hotel, and the first foreign venture of its kind, in the famously closed kingdom of Bhutan, Amankora was one of the most eagerly awaited openings of last year. When we visited in November, five months later, the resort was virtually empty, a reminder perhaps that Bhutan sees fewer than 10,000 visitors a year. The setting is spectacular: in the shadow of Jamalhari, Bhutan's highest mountain, overlooking a picturesque village surrounded by pine forests. The 24 bedrooms are in six rammed-earth houses that echo the shape of a ruined 17th-century fort on the hill above. All rooms have a log-burning stove and are panelled in indigenous wood. The freestanding terrazzo bathtubs are a big plus, as are the enormous beds. Thoughtful touches such as freshly baked biscuits and a pillow gift of Bhutanese postage stamps remind you that you are at an Amanresort, but at the time of our visit the service was not as slick or intuitive as you might expect from the chain. Things will, no doubt, improve with time. In the absence of mini-bars, room service or televisions, some may lament the low lighting in the bedrooms and common areas, which makes reading difficult; but the living room has spectacular floor-to-ceiling mountain views and the food is robust and wholesome. Communal eating in the dining hall is encouraged, as are gatherings around the bonfire, which might not appeal to everyone, especially honeymooners. WHEN TO GO During Paro's tsechu (religious festival) in mid-March. ROOM TO BOOK All are in the same style; get one upstairs for the views. CONTACT Amankora, Paro, Bhutan (00 65 6887 3337; fax: 6887 3338; www.amanresorts.com). Doubles from $1,189 all-inclusive