THE FACTS ABOUT VICEROY SANTA MONICA

USA

If you have an ocean-facing room and you're up at dawn, watch the sky turn one deep shade of blue and the Pacific Ocean turn another. True, this is Santa Monica not Tahiti, and the view includes rooftops and parking lots, but it's still gorgeous and in this hip but ritzy beach community, you're within walking distance of some of the world's best shops and restaurants. Order breakfast and you may never want to leave: the French toast with pecans, golden raisins and a dollop of St André - a triple-cream cheese - is a triumph. The lunch (try the chicken noodle soup with black truffle) and dinner (carpaccio of hamachi; braised shortribs with horseradish gremolata) menus have wowed the critics and come at reasonable prices. Also attracting attention is the witty decor by designer Kelly Wearstler, who has combined mid-20th-century modern with English country-house clichés, imagine Austin Powers redesigning Clarence House. The bedroom furnishings are as eccentric as the public spaces, with porcelain dogs supporting desk lamps and dinner plates on the walls instead of paintings. But comfort is never sacrificed for effect and Viceroy's only real vice is street noise, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings, when the lobby bar and chic poolside party area are packed. WHEN TO GO Avoid June, which is an unusually gloomy month in southern California WHICH ROOM TO BOOK Any above the sixth floor, facing the ocean CONTACT Viceroy, 1819 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica, California, USA (00 1 310 260 7500; fax: 394 6657; www.viceroysantamonica.com). Doubles with city view $269-$394; with ocean view $336-$495; suites $550-$1,688