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Perched above the slipway where fishing boats are moored in the tiny village of Portloe, The Lugger was opened in April 2002 by Richard Young and his American wife Sheryl. Smaller and less urbane than the chic Tresanton in St Mawes (where Young was general manager), it manages to combine down-to-earth Cornish warmth with a languid note of luxury. The 21 bedrooms, some of which are small, are decorated in sophisticated shades of cool slate and cream; the beds are stacked high with crisp pillows; and the bathrooms are wonderful, with huge shower heads and deep baths. The owners run a nearby art gallery and so local seascapes are much in favour. Downstairs in the compact restaurant, throne-backed chairs and linen-covered tables overlook the sea and there is a terrace for hazy sunny afternoons. Franz Hornegger's menu is sophisticated but unfussy (seafood predominates) and there is an impressive wine cellar. Should you wish, massages and Reiki healing treatments can be arranged. There are conference facilities, but The Lugger is more likely to appeal to couples looking for some peace and quiet (no under-12s are allowed). The Lugger was featured in our special feature UK Hotels.
WHEN TO GO
From Easter onwards the surrounding clifs are ideal for long walks
WHICH ROOM TO BOOK
201 or 202 are biggest and have the best sea views
CONTACT
The Lugger Hotel, Portloe, Cornwall (01872 501322; fax: 501691; www.luggerhotel.com). Doubles £160-£280
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