The new Taj Exotica indicates a change in direction for Taj Hotels - an Indian chain better known for its business hotels. This may not be the most pristine island in the Maldives (it is too near the main island of Malé to escape aircraft noise entirely) but in terms of service and cuisine, the Taj Exotica is leagues ahead of the rest. This is all down to one man: Rajesh Jhingon, the former general manager of Amarvilas in Agra, who brought with him a handful of its staff, including Ashfer Biju, the young and talented chef. The attention to detail is not found at many other resorts in the Maldives. Biju's light touch in the kitchen is inspired, with a lot of spice and colour. There are 56 large, over-water bungalows off wood-plank walkways. Each has a marble bathroom, spectacular floor-to-ceiling windows, looking over the water and immaculate beds covered with Indian silks. There are also eight cottages (four with plunge pools) on the busy, small beach. The infinity pool looks out towards the diving platform on the reef, a boat ride away. The spa is arguably the best in the Maldives. It's a pity that Taj has chosen to manicure any character out of the island, but fortunately the staff inject enough soul to compensate.
WHEN TO GO
May and June are the really rainy months. August is overlooked, offers low-season
rates and is great for honeymoons
WHICH ROOM TO BOOK
The Rehendi Suite at the end of the jetty. Otherwise, ask for bungalows on the right-hand side; on the left, you see the twinkling lights of Malé
CONTACT
Taj Exotica Resort and Spa, South Malé Atoll, Republic of Maldives (00 960 44 2200; fax: 44 2211; www.tajhotels.com/Maldives). Doubles from US$400
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