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WHY DJERBA?
It was the mythical fruit of the lotus flower that temped Odysseus to stay on this small and largely unspoilt Tunisian island, but it is the friendliness of the people that will make you reluctant to leave. Life here is entwined with flowers and scent - during winter orange blossom scents the air, and during jasmine season the local men wear bunches of the fragrant flowers behind their ears. It is still a relatively discovered Mediterranean option for British travellers, but the French and the Italians have been fans for decades.
WHERE TO STAY
Inland, away from the tourists but still not far from the sea, you will find the small village of Er Riadh, in which a serene little hotel, Dar Dhiafa, is located. Its four converted 600-year-old houses are a microcosm of the village itself: a maze of alleyways connecting small courtyards where bougainvillea and cacti grow in clay pots. In the 14 rooms, Berber rugs and cushions add rich reds to the ochre and creams. Candles flicker in niches in the thick, uneven walls. It's all very tasteful. Dar Dhiafa, Er Riadh, Djerba (00 216 75 671 166; www.hoteldardhiafa.com).
WHERE TO EAT
There are few places to eat in Er Riadh apart from at Dar Diafa itself, but if you stop by the island's capital, Houmt Souk, Restaurant Haroun is the best upmarket fish restaurant. As at all restaurants, you are served a plate of olives and harissa as an appetiser. Restaurant Haroun, Le Port, Houmt Souk (00 216 75 650 488).
THE BEST EXCURSION
Catch a bus, taxi or hop on a bike to discover the fascinating landscape between Dar Dhiafa and the village of Guellala, which is famous for its pottery. The road is lined with shops selling local handmade pottery and piles of rose de sable (rose of sand), a crystal from the Sahara. The Musée Guellala is perched on the highest point of the island, just 52 metres above sea level, and shows scenes of traditional Tunisian life.
Find out more in our extensive travel guide to Djerba |
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