THE FACTS ABOUT CASA CUBANA

USA

The skiing at Taos is pleasantly old-fashioned, ungroomed and gnarly but - despite what the locals say - not really exceptional. Its setting, on the other hand, is incredible. Set off from the nearest major airport at Albuquerque, under three hours away, and the car radio will be playing sentimental Tex-Mex dirges while the signposts point to destinations such as Cuba, Madrid and Santo Domingo Pueblo. Skiing? You get the feeling you must have taken a wrong turning somewhere. But past Santa Fe, at the far end of a vast high-desert plateau, lies the extraordinary town of Taos; and, beyond it, the 12,481ft Kachina Peak rears out of the Carson Forest. There is some accommodation around the lift-base of Taos Ski Valley, but only convalescents should stay there: it's very quiet. Down in the somewhat unkempt town of Taos, Native American culture, Spanish colonial tradition, hippies and bohemians meet, creating a unique atmosphere and spawning an incredible variety of restaurants for a community of 6,000 people; and El Monte Sagrado offers accommodation the like of which is not to be found anywhere near any other ski area. Among the traditional, adobe-style structures of Taos are some of the longest-inhabited homes in the USA; and most of the 10 casitas available to rent from Dharma Living Resorts are landmark buildings on the town's old La Loma Plaza. But although the structures are traditional, their interior styles are wildly eclectic. Casa Yoruba's African look is startling; but more appealing is Casa Cubana, its primary colours and roof-lights inserting a winter brightness into a building designed to stay cool in high summer. Small, with just one double bedroom, a bathroom and living area with kitchen, it can be interlinked with other casitas to create an eight-bed unit. All the properties are well-equipped - most with dishwashers, DVD players and fireplaces - and all are delightful, so even if your first nine choices happened to be taken, you probably wouldn't be disappointed. CONTACT Dharma Living Resorts (00 1 505 758 3502; fax: 737 2985; www.elmontesagrado.com). Casa Cubana from $245 per night THE SKIING Taos Ski Valley is no place for skiers who enjoy the five-star resorts of the Western USA, with their valet services, high-speed lifts and perfectly groomed pistes. It's rough, tough and proud of it. A sign alongside Al's Run famously announces in capital letters: 'Don't panic! You're looking at only 1/30th of Taos Ski Valley. We have many easy runs too!' Actually Al's Run isn't that difficult, but there are plenty of steep runs through the trees - very enjoyable, provided you don't mind getting snow in your pockets - and in the two bowls above the tree line. The ski base is 18 miles from the town of Taos.