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DOMAINE PICARNIER

PERNES-LES-FONTAINES , FRANCE
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The elegant but dated decor of Domaine Picarnier may not be to everyone's taste, but if you are after authentic Provençal style rather than a 'look', this is the real thing. The vine-covered mas is down a rural road outside Pernes-les-Fontaines in two acres of sun-dappled pine and oak woodland. The owner inherited the property from her father, a former mayor of the village, and it reflects her refined taste with a wealth of polished antiques, books, paintings and precious objets d'art. There are deep-pile carpets and fabric-padded walls; a mezzanine-level 'bridge room' with card tables; oriental rugs and polished floor tiles. The house and grounds are well maintained and blessedly peaceful. Because the original swimming pool is some distance from the house, a new one has been built in front of the furnished, open-sided veranda with a paved surround for sunbathing; there is also a shady dining terrace just off the book-lined library and living room. The master bedroom, with its enormous, sunken bathroom, lies hidden behind a false bookcase on the ground floor, where there is also a functional 'children's room' with three mattresses. Narrow stairs lead up to two charming bedrooms and a bathroom.

Pernes-Les-Fontaines, midway between Carpentras and Cavaillon, is about an hour's drive from St-Rémy-de-Provence. It takes its name from the 39 fountains within the fortified walls of the old town. It is a beautiful, honey-coloured place dating back to the 10th century with an 11th-century Romanesque church, Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth; the 14th-century ramparts retain three of the original gateways. Walk along the tree-lined canal and meander through the narrow streets: compact Pernes-les-Fontaines holds enough surprises for several days' exploration.

SLEEPS
Six adults comfortably; the 'children's room' is best suited to teenagers, or unexpected guests. Only available July-September.

PRICE
£4,465-£4,750 per week, including maid service

CONTACT
Balfour France (020 8878 9955; www.balfourfrance.com).

FLY
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) to Nîmes (60km away)
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