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Down a small track a few kilometres from St-Rémy is Gréou, a classic blue-shuttered mas owned by the Bergès family (Luc-Marie and Cathy, their three children and a dog named Lola). The setting is pastoral-perfect with irises, oleander bushes and overreaching plane trees, a large stone well, teak tables and chairs, and zingy striped deckchairs for lazing in the afternoon sun. The swimming pool, with its new summer kitchen/dining/lounge area,
is hidden behind a thick hedge, beyond which is a paddock for the Bergès' much-loved horses (guests are invited to bring their own). Gréou is part maison d'hôtes, part family house: the self-contained guest suites are of hotel standard, both in terms of mod cons (air conditioning, telephones, satellite TV and DVD) and decor. One of the rooms, El Cid, is immaculate, with tiled-stone floors, scarlet-and-cream bed hangings and white linen sheets, a walk-in shower with a 'monsoon' shower-head, a roll-top bath and Annick Goutal toiletries.
The other options are the Colonial room (which has a four-poster), the Blue room (a twin) or the two-storey family suite in the converted pigeon house.
Luc-Marie, an enthusiastic cook and master of ceremonies, is friendly and informative (just make sure he pours your drink before you start asking questions) with an impressive eye for detail. The meals are simple and fresh, using local organic produce where possible; dinner may include courgette soup, foie gras and mesclun salad, followed by cheese and crème brûlée.
Although the hotel standards do not always extend to the service, there can be no doubting the warmth of the Bergès welcome: some former guests have become good friends, and the ground floor of the family home is open to everyone. The Bergès' comfortable, book-lined living room is perfect for an apéro in front of the fire and the dining room is filled with drawings by French artist Guy Buffet, who is Cathy's uncle. There are plans to extend the mas this winter, converting an outbuilding into another two-bedroom suite and public spaces: perhaps by next summer, the Bergès family will finally be able to reclaim their dining room.
CONTACT
Chemin du Loup, Eyragues (00 33 4 90 24 94 46; fax: 90 24 94 45; www.greou.com). Doubles €125-€220; Pigeonnier suite (sleeps two to four) €150-€300. Breakfast €10, lunch €15-€25, dinner €25-€35. Dogs €20 per day. Closed three weeks in February
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