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You may think that you have taken a wrong turn as you wind your way through the narrow streets of Arles' historic (and somewhat gritty) Roquette district. Surely there isn't enough space here for a large house with a swimming pool? Then you spot the discreet name plaque, push open the heavy wooden gate and enter the enchanting garden with its raised bassin d'eau fronting an intimate 19th-century townhouse. Built by Guillaume Meiffren-Laugier, Baron of Chartrouse, when he became mayor in 1824, the house opened as an hotel in 2002 after six months' renovation and redecoration by the current owner, Brigitte Pagès de Oliveira. There are seven bedrooms, and sumptuously decorated public areas such as the deep-red dining room and purple living room with its tall, gilt mirrors that reach towards the high ceilings. Each bedroom is individually decorated: those in the main house are very grand, with four-posters, roll-top baths and marble fireplaces; those in the converted stable block are simpler, with a slight Oriental influence. (Arles has a strong Moorish culture and on special occasions the garden is tented-over, kasbah-style.)
Rooms in the main house overlook the quiet garden and, other than dark-wood floors and a grey-and-white frieze of hand-painted 19th-century wallpaper (by an artist called Zuber, after whom the room is named), are entirely white: walls and cornicing, bed hangings, upholstered seats, bed linen and bedcover. Despite the grand surroundings and attention to detail (the silver rosewater dispenser in the bedrooms, the rose petals scattered on the breakfast table, the LeNôtre patisseries from Paris), the atmosphere at L'Hôtel Particulier is relaxed and informal, thanks largely to the easy charm of Mme Pagès and her staff. Don't let yourself be so seduced, however, that you forget to explore Arles. The hotel is conveniently located behind buzzy boulevard des Lices and a short walk from the place du Forum; 'must sees' include the impressive 1st-century Roman theatre and amphitheatre. After a day exploring, you can retreat to the dappled shade of the ancient trees in the hotel garden, and (from October) enjoy the new spa.
CONTACT
4 rue de la Monnaie, Arles (00 33 4 90 52 51 40; fax: 90 96 16 70; www.hotel-particulier.com). Doubles €130-€182; suites €153-€182. Breakfast €12.50. Massage €70 for one hour
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