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Hardly a bistro in the traditional sense, but certainly intriguing, Spoon (which has branches in Tokyo, Mauritius and at London's Sanderson hotel) is the whimsical brainchild of Alain Ducasse, one of the presiding geniuses of modern haute cuisine. The menu is a mix-and-match affair that zigzags wildly from Japan to Italy to the US and back. You choose whether to eat with chopsticks and china spoons or with a drearily conventional knife and fork. Occasionally, you may feel that Ducasse is taking the mickey, with 'dishes' such as BLT and bubble-gum ice cream, or the selection of organic cereals and beans dressed with 'drops of olive oil, wine vinegar, Noirmoutier salt and ground pepper'. But his audience of fashion folk and people-about-town seems delighted by it all. If this restaurant were a magazine, it would be Wallpaper*. Monstrously trendy and maddeningly self-conscious, it is, however, highly entertaining.
CONTACT
14 rue de Marignan, 75008 Paris (00 33 1 40 76 34 44; fax: 40 76 34 37). Closed Saturday, Sunday and from mid-July to mid-August
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