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LES BOOKINISTES |
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QUAI DES GRANDS AUGUSTINS, PARIS, FRANCE
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This was one of the first in the wave of baby bistros, owned by three-Michelin-star wizard Guy Savoy, who now has no less than seven such places under his wing. Les Bookinistes, named after the second-hand booksellers who ply their trade across the road, is hugely popular. The decor is an appealing mix of urban cool and bourgeois comfort, with huge framed mirrors, retro lamps in primary colours and modernist high-backed chairs. The fusion-food bug prevails here, with pesto and chorizo and oriental spices all in evidence; but a comforting feeling of stability emanates from the kitchen. Servings are generous- very much a part of the bistro ethic- and the cooking is quietly inventive. These days, Parisian food is showing a renewed interest in the possibilities of sweet and savoury combinations. Here, skate wing is served with dried fruits, pork mignons with spinach and pears. The cream of chestnut soup with mushrooms and pistachio oil is gloriously rich and sticky. Fantastic puddings such as cappuccino of white peaches with sorbet of fromage blanc reveal the hand of the master, Monsieur Savoy. Squares of Valrhona chocolate are served with notably good coffee.
CONTACT
53 quai des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris (00 33 1 43 25 45 94; fax: 43 25 23 07). Closed Saturday and Sunday lunch, open all year
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