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Happening young chef Hélène Darroze, whose eponymous restaurant won a Michelin star last year, had the brilliant idea of opening a low-priced, casual bistro on the ground floor so that 'young people and my friends could afford to try my cooking'. Darroze takes the bistro concept in a radical new direction. Inspired by the lounging, grazing lifestyle of the modern city, she has created a mellow environment, big velvet cushions in warm colours, cool music and a choice of seating levels from sofa to high chair. Choose from a range of carefully presented small dishes, which she calls 'tapas', reflecting the Spanish influence in her cooking. On a given day, there might be garlic-and-parsley-stuffed mussels, braised red-mullet fillets with saffron-spiced fondant potato and cold cream of duck liver with green lentils and crispy pancetta. The bread here is notably good. This contemporary salon is a fine place to eat, drink, and doze off on the big soft cushions, while the world grinds on outside.
CONTACT
4 rue d'Assas, 75006 Paris (00 33 1 42 22 00 11; fax: 42 22 25 40). Closed Sunday, Monday and from 21 July to 3 September
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