THE FACTS ABOUT LE DAUPHIN

France Paris

Bistro gems pop up in some surprising places. Le Dauphin is right in the centre of Paris, on the rue Saint Honoré opposite the Palais Royal, yet it looks like the epitome of provincial France. The dining room is a jewel of retro chic, with hanging ball lamps, mosaic floors and walls and kitschy stained-glass windows at the back. The provincial flavour is oddly appropriate given the CVs of the proprietors, Didier Oudill and Garry Duhr, who gave up a Michelin-starred background in Biarritz to buy this old bistro and try their luck in Paris. Le Dauphin, in its new incarnation, has been going since January 1999 and is a firm favourite with Parisians in the know. The kitchen offers two intriguing formulae: the first is cantines de verre, Mason jars to be shared between two or three people and filled with terrines, pâtés, confit of tuna, preserved vegetables, etc. The other is a Spanish-style parrillada of grilled meats and/or seafood. All is truly delicious and beautifully arranged on huge oval plates. The service is impressively sweet-natured. CONTACT 167 rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris (00 33 1 42 60 40 11; fax: 42 60 01 18). Open daily, all year