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L'O A LA BOUCHE |
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BOULEVARD DU MONTPARNASSE, PARIS, FRANCE
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From the outside there is little to distinguish this place from the legions of noisy tourist brasseries around Montparnasse. Inside, however, there is something about the calm and comfortable atmosphere that reveals that you are on to a winner. Franck Paquier, former chef at the Savoy's La Butte Chaillot, produces food that is consistently satisfying, hearty and well-presented. You can choose from the set menu and/or seasonal specials. Typical dishes might include cocotte of veal kidney with Meaux mustard or an old-fashioned marmite of pheasant with chestnuts and morel mushrooms. Puddings get seriously traditional with rhubarb crumble (le crumble has been a surprise hit on bistro menus recently), hazelnut charlotte and Grand Marnier soufflé. There are also excellent home-made ice creams and sorbets. The occasional slip-up reminds you that this is no cathedral of cuisine, the flaky-pastry tourte of mixed game meats, foie gras and preserved onions is too gristly and its sauce too sticky. But at these prices, who's complaining? In any case, the general charm of the place makes up for everything.
CONTACT
124 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014 Paris (00 33 1 56 54 01 55; fax: 43 21 07 87). Closed Sunday, Monday, first week January, second week April and for the first three weeks in August
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