THE FACTS ABOUT L'ARDOISE

France Paris

This cheerful little bistro, an oasis of sensible pricing in the wildly expensive district around place Vendôme and the Louvre, is a popular choice for bellboys from the nearby posh hotels, as well as American tourists. The space is small, the tables packed together and the room is hardly a marvel of interior decoration, but the atmosphere is pleasant and relaxed. Pierre Jay, the rubicund young chef, can be seen popping out of the kitchen to answer the phone, definitely what is called a hands-on operation. Blackboards are propped up on neighbouring chairs for your perusal. Warm crab tart or ragout of pig's foot and celeriac rémoulade might lead to bourride, roast partridge or tripe with pimiento, tomato and chickpeas. Puddings, including roast pineapple with vanilla sauce, fig tart and good cheeses are equally successful. L'Ardoise is a good choice for lunch after a visit to the Louvre, with the added advantage that it's open on Sundays. CONTACT 28 rue du Mont-Thabor, 75001 Paris (00 33 1 42 96 28 18). Closed Monday, Tuesday, for one week in May and all of August