| Mexico's Chichén Itzá may be more famous, but the downside of its celebrity is the crowds it attracts. At first light its car parks start filling with coaches, and you'll find New Agers banging drums and chanting at the top of its pyramid. By contrast, Tikal in Guatemala, arguably the most spectacular of the ruined Mayan cities, is often all but deserted. The 58-metre-high summit of Temple Four has been accessible only since 2003, when a ladder with 105 rungs was installed. But it's worth the climb for the view of the central plaza and its acropolis. The acoustic qualities are incredible: at the top you can hear voices from the plaza. And there should be abundant wildlife: troupes of howler monkeys swinging through
the trees, white-fronted spider monkeys and 300-plus species of exotic bird including
blue-crowned motmots, keel-billed toucans
and emerald toucanets, hummingbirds no bigger than a thumb, and countless parrots. Journey Latin America (020 8747 8315; www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) offers tailor-made tours that take in Tikal, Chichén Itzá and the other great
lost cities of the Maya, from £1,040 per person excluding international flights.
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