Soneva Gili has had more press attention and won more awards since opening in May 2002 than any of its competitors. This is possibly due to expectations raised by Soneva Fushi, Gili's undeniably attractive sister resort. I thought Gili disappointing, bearing in mind the prices charged. Other guests concurred. One couple moved out of their top-of-the-range 'Crusoe Residence' - there are seven of these free-standing, stilted bungalows accessed via boat, not walkway - because the tide was so low they were only just able to get to their room. The all-wood, thatched bungalows are vast and smartly decorated, although their rustic, stilted look smacks a bit of the Kevin Costner movie Waterworld.
Gili is near Malé (15 minutes by speedboat). It attracts Japanese honeymooners who are passionate about overwater rooms, the design formula for all Gili's 44 bungalows, and this seems to be the only reason the owners chose this location since the island, known locally as Lankanfushi, is too small to build on land. In fact, much of the island is reclaimed. There are three jetties (jetty three, which you can swim
off, is the best). Elsewhere, the lagoon is shallow and fish life relatively poor. Again, this is probably due to the number of boats ploughing to and from the capital.
Gili does have a superlative spa, with enthusiastic, well-trained therapists. The food, too, is good, although a little overpriced and - at least in its early days
- rather inconsistent. Menus include a strong selection of lighter options
including a sushi buffet at lunch. The wine list runs from French to Mexican.
The bungalows open up to catch the sea breezes, offering the pleasure of falling asleep at night to the sound of waves against the reef. You can also sleep in
the open air on a thatched, cabana-style day bed on the sun deck. Villas are well screened from each other, which can be a problem at other resorts where they are lined up back to back. The staff: guest ratio is high - some 230 staff to 44 rooms
- but the service needs more direction than it had during my visit, when there
was a changeover of management. There is a restaurant, a bar and a swimming
pool. However, none of these areas feels like a proper hub. Everyone holes up in their room, which is why the resort lacks a buzz. And communal space is tight, which is why staying three nights may be enough for most people.
BEST FOR
Spa-going couples in the first flush of love and regulars to the Maldives who want to try something new.
ROOM TO BOOK
Jetty three, for swimming without wading from your room. For privacy, Soneva Gili Residences number 32, 33 and 34, all located at the end of a walkway. Number 31 is a rung down in size (classified as a Soneva Gili Villa Suite), but has an empty-horizon view. Avoid the faddish Crusoe Residences, unless you want to retreat completely.
BOOKING DETAILS
00 960 440 304; fax: 440 305; email: sonresa@sonevagili.com.mv; www.six-senses.com/soneva-gili.com. Doubles from US$645. The One-Week Package Villa suites from £2,287 in low season, £3,073 in high season |
