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THE SAMLING |
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LAKE DISTRICT , ENGLAND
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Set high above Windermere, The Samling is a noble 18th-century white-washed stone house, with three gables and ornamental bargeboards. It is nestled against a hillside in 67 acres of steeply sloping land, some of it beautifully landscaped, planted with magnolias and azaleas, and dotted with interesting slate sculptures and seating areas. The Samling's literature claims 'it's like no other place you've stayed' - which is probably true. The 11 rooms are an exercise in modish shabby chic, attractive if rather overly-furnished with ticking-covered sofas, check armchairs, various tables, side chairs, cupboards, Shaker boxes, oars. Beyond the living room are spacious bathrooms, paved in cold slate (slippers are not provided). They are all very lovely but it's not a practical arrangement. The telephones, for instance, are positioned by the bath and by the bed, not much use except when you're in one or the other. And this is a place where the management ring you a lot: to warn you breakfast is on its way or that they're coming for the tray.
The Samling's general manager is the tireless Nigel Parkin, a man with a Stakhanovite work ethic, who may seem to be the only member of staff. He greets you warmly, shows you to your room, moves the car, fetches the bags and brings breakfast in the morning. In the restaurant, avoid the starter of sautéed foie gras, which is cold and suspiciously tin-shaped. The scallops and pea purée are good, as is the guinea fowl, pot-roasted in hay and served with plump morels, along with green and white asparagus. It is melting and delicious beyond words. The Samling has a lot to recommend it (and a celebrity client list that has included Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman and the Beckhams), but the service is a let down.
CONTACT
The Samling, Ambleside Road, Windermere (015394 31922; www.thesamling.com). Doubles from £175 B&B Mon-Thurs (from £255 including dinner), from £205 Fri-Sun (from £285 including dinner). Set menus £45 and £60
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