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MAN WAH

HONG KONG, CHINA
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Henry Ho has presided over Man Wah's rosewood-laden dining room for 35 years. Housed in the Mandarin Oriental hotel, the menu here is refined but wide-ranging. The strangely hushed dining room comes alive when the food arrives. This could be a marvellous frivolity of tiny silver pancakes topped with 1,000-year-old egg, preserved ginger and the crisp skin of suckling pig, fresh garoupa with yellow-bean crumbs and Chef Heung's own very special take on beggar's chicken.

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25th floor, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Road, Central (00 852 2825 4025). About £110 for two with wine
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