THE FACTS ABOUT CHRYSSI AKTI

Greece

Nimborio, Evia (00 30 22 240 51207). Open year round, noon to 11pm. Posh Athenians nip over from the mainland by speedboat to this no-frills fish taverna at the end of a dirt track. The dish of the day is whatever the Tollias brothers happen to catch in their nets that morning, drizzled with divine ladolemono (olive oil and lemon). In summer, they may knock up a crab salad, lobster spaghetti or mussel pilaf as you watch the sun set over the Aegean and sift sand between your toes.