Chios is a rambling island with rich and varied landscapes. Many shipping tycoons have
summer houses in Kambos, a lush plain of citrus orchards and crumbling manor houses hidden behind high walls and huge gates, and Perleas is one of very few guesthouses. The 17th-century farmhouse is surrounded by more than a thousand orange, lemon and tangerine trees planted in perfect symmetry. There are two secluded garden cottages converted from storerooms and servants quarters, and three bedrooms in the main house, which has a pine-shaded veranda overlooking
a pond and giant waterwheel. The interiors look like the handiwork of a magpie granny with a penchant for brass beds, family portraits and fresh-picked posies, but are, in fact, the work of
the estate managers, Vangelis and Clairy Xydas, who live downstairs and are energetic but discreet hosts. Vangelis is responsible for the collection of jukeboxes, vintage typewriters and cameras, as well as the sculptures in wood and iron. Clairy - who makes organic preserves, sweets and pickles on site - cooks Greek suppers three times a week using ingredients from the farm, including tomato fritters, pork and artichoke stew, and galaktoboureko (custard cream baked in syrup-soaked filo pastry).
CONTACT
00 30 22710 32217; www.perleas.gr. Doubles from 80 euros; open March-October
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