THE FACTS ABOUT ROWLEY LEIGH

AL FRESCO - HOTEL LA ROSETTA, PERUGIA, ITALY La Rosetta serves straightforward Italian food with great charm, such as grilled trout from nearby Lake Trasimeno or pasta with fresh ceps. It's a place to escape to, down an alley off the main street in Perugia - a vivacious, lively town. The restaurant is in the hotel courtyard; hors d'oeuvres are laid out on little tables in the evening. And the maître d' recognised me after an eight-year absence. Piazza Italia 19, Perugia, Italy (00 39 075 572 0841). AFFORDABLE - LA MERENDA, NICE, FRANCE There is fantastic pasta with pesto, and a great daube. There's no telephone, so the restaurant doesn't take bookings - or credit cards. You're asked if you'd like your wine chilled or at room temperature - there's no other choice - and there are six starters and six main courses, all of which are beautiful. La Merenda was featured in our guide to Nice. Rue de la Terrasse 4, Nice, France (no telephone). SMART - CHECCHINO DAL 1887, ROME, ITALY A really superior bistro - smart tablecloths and an incredible wine list with a very traditional menu. It has been stigmatised for serving only offal, which is unfair as there are other dishes such as oxtail and all sorts of lamb. My favourite is agnello alla cacciatore, little pieces of lamb sautéed with chilli, anchovies and red-wine vinegar. It's delicious. Checchino Dal 1887 was featured in our guide to Rome. Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 00153 Rome, Italy (00 39 06 574 6318; www.checchino-dal-1887.com; closed Aug). KENSINGTON PLACE, LONDON 201 Kensington Church Street, London W8 (020 7727 3184)