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AL FRESCO - CHEZ JUJU, CAMARGUE, FRANCE
Chez JuJu is basically a shack, right on the beach in a beautiful part of the Camargue. It's very simple - you sit at bench-like tables on the sand and they use a wood oven to roast sea bass, grill prawns and cook clams with garlic sauce. There are no vegetables, just salad. You walk along the sand to reach the restaurant and there are very few people there, just the local French taking their dogs for walks. Beauduc, Camargue, France (00 33 4 42 86 83 86).
AFFORDABLE - U GIANCU, RAPALLO, ITALY
This is run by an exceptionally odd chef. He uses a fantastic variety of wild greens and herbs, and cooks pasta with vegetable sauces. It's a very eccentric place; the restaurant is filled with cartoons by people from all around the world and the chef looks like a caricature himself. Everything is served up in the middle of the restaurant so you can see exactly what everyone else is eating. They serve simple grilled meat with zucchini, artichokes and porcini mushrooms. Via San Massimo, 16035 Rapallo, Italy (00 39 0185 260505; www.ugiancu.it).
SMART - DEI CACIATTORI DA CESARE, PIEMONTE, ITALY
Cesare is an extraordinary man who used to cook on ocean liners and regularly goes AWOL. The restaurant looks so modest - there are three or four tables covered with red cotton and white lace tablecloths, and a whole kid slowly roasting in the fireplace. I go there in November when the white truffles are in season, and have two or three courses of them, and an amazing chestnut soup. I think this is one of the best restaurants in the world: there's a real sense of anticipation and excitement about it, and always the smell of truffles. Via San Bernardo 9, 12050 Albaretto Della Torre, Piemonte, Italy (00 39 0173 520141).
RIVER CAFE, LONDON
Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London W6 (020 7386 4200; www.rivercafe.co.uk)
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