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AL FRESCO - LA COLOMBE D'OR, FRANCE
It's tricky eating outside, as the hot sun does not provide the best conditions for food; but this place is fantastic. I went there when I was a kid and found it as tolerant of children as
of ageing Americans. You can get dish after dish of hors d'oeuvres and a great shoulder of lamb, and I always drink rosé. It's the kind of place where you share food with your friends, which is exactly what I like to do. Place de Gaulle, 06570 St Paul de Vence,
France (00 33 4 93 32 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor.com).
AFFORDABLE - LE RUBIS, PARIS
This is my spiritual home for lunch. The bar is on the left, a row of tables to the right, and it's always packed. All the old boys at the bar look round and smile when you have your first glass of wine because they know how good it is. There's tripe on Mondays and they also have delicious cheese and a slightly burned tart. It's an indication of the understanding of lunch the French possess that we just don't have in Britain. Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré 10, 75001 Paris, France (00 33 1 42 61 03 34)
SMART - LE GRAND VEFOUR, PARIS
Walking past the Palais Royal on the way to lunch or dinner is about as good as it gets, and Le Grand Véfour is a restaurant with great magic and charm. When I was there I had a warm, waxy potato salad with as much black truffle as you could wish for, and a cow's foot that was crispy on the outside and gelatinous on the inside. The sommelier understood my pidgin French description of the Burgundy I thought would be appropriate and delivered the perfect bottle. Rue de Beaujolais 17, 75001 Paris, France (00 33 1 42 96 56 27; www.relaischateaux.com).
ST JOHN, LONDON
26 St John Street, London EC1 (020 7251 0848; www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk)
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