THE FACTS ABOUT ANGELA HARTNETT

AL FRESCO - HOTEL PERUSKENEA, NAVARRA, SPAIN This is an organic, solar-powered bed-and-breakfast run by a couple in the middle of a valley, completely off the beaten track. I had a wonderful bean soup and a simple roast lamb as a main course, accompanied by half a bottle of wine. It was one of my first meals in Spain and I'd had to drive for hours through the Basque country to reach it. It made a very promising start to my travels there. Beruete, Navarra, Spain (00 34 94 850 3370; www.peruskenea.com). AFFORDABLE - GIUSTI, MODENA, ITALY This used to be a butcher's shop, and there's a delicatessen at the front. There are five little tables; the wife looks after the covers and the husband cooks; and there's a wine cellar across the alley. I had an excellent handmade tagliatelle with a light veal sauce, and deep-fried pasta parcels with parma ham, prosciutto, lardo and different salamis. Via Farini 75, 41200 Modena, Italy (00 39 059 222533). SMART - DAL PESCATORE, MANTUA, ITALY I took Neil, my head chef, here. It's so simple but the food has absolutely amazing flavours, and it's in the middle of nowhere. It's run by a mother, her son and daughter-in-law. The surroundings are very homely, with a dog sitting by the fire. I had a tomato tureen that's now on the Connaught menu, it was one of the most refreshing dishes I've ever eaten. Dal Pescatore was featured in our guide to Mantua. Runate 17, Canneto Sull'Oglio, 46013 Mantua, Italy (00 39 0376 723001). MENU AND GRILL ROOM AT THE CONNAUGHT, LONDON 16 Carlos Place, London W1 (020 7592 1222; www.savoy-group.com/connaught)