THE FACTS ABOUT SEAVIEW HOTEL AND RESTAURANT

England

The hotel's name raises expectations that only three of the 16 bedrooms can fulfil, but that hardly matters to the guests who return year after year to the Seaview, drawn by the excellent food and the warm hospitality of Nick and Nicky Hayward. The couple no longer own the hotel, which they built up over two decades; but they will still be much in evidence when it reopens this month with an expanded kitchen and new brasserie restaurant. Because the hotel has grown organically, the layout is labyrinthine, with bedrooms turning up in the strangest places, down long corridors or at the end of a flight of stairs. They are freshened up every couple of years, in rotation, and are pleasant and comfortable though hardly stylish. The Seaview is a wonderfully practical place, and family-friendly, too: there's a rambling family apartment under the eaves, the small, self-catering Myrtle Cottage out back, and what was formerly the Haywards' home - the old bank next door, converted into a five-bedroom house - is also available for rent. Much of the hotel's reputation rests on the cooking of head chef Michael Green. Even in mid-winter locals come from miles around to eat in the hotel's two bars and restaurants. Most of the produce is from the island, as are Nicky Hayward and the new owner's wife. The original dining room (known as the Front Restaurant) and the Sunshine Room addition at the back of the hotel share a sophisticated but unfussy menu featuring baby pears with Parma ham and Stilton dressing, a hot crab ramekin, tempura of monkfish and cod and fillet of local seabass with lemon confit and crushed potatoes. The rustic public bar serves a bistro version of the same menu, with the addition of fish pie with crusty rolls and sirloin steak with garlic butter, salad and chips. A children's menu is also available. In summer, the front bar spills out on to the terrace. THE SEASIDE A few steps from the hotel is a safe, shingle beach and rock pools. To the south are the sands of Priory Bay, about 45 minutes' walk away (depending on the tide). WHEN TO GO Summer is the obvious time, when the Isle of Wight's Enid Blyton-esque charm is at its height and there are plenty of outings and activities for children. During winter, the Seaview offers the utmost privacy for couples intent on escape. BOOKING DETAILS Seaview Hotel & Restaurant, The High Street, Seaview, Isle of Wight (01983 612711; fax: 613729; www.seaviewhotel.co.uk). Standard rooms from £83 per night B&B; The Apartment from £194 per night B&B; The Bank from £420 per week; Myrtle Cottage from £336 per week