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Lined with 1930s semis, the road that leads into Aldeburgh from the A12 is the picture of suburbia; but although the façade of number 32 wouldn't look out of place in a sitcom, there are no swirly carpets indoors, just no-nonsense slate flooring and cool, modern decor in shades of putty, cream and chocolate. The house is decorated with atmospheric, black-and-white photographs of reeds and marshes in the area, a few simple ceramic pieces and some well-chosen flotsam and jetsam to remind you - if the sound of seagulls doesn't - that you're only about a mile from the sea.
Upstairs are the two B&B rooms, a double and a single, the former affording great views of the estuary and the curve of the coast down to Orford. Rush matting, cosy throws, and a well-stocked library of CDs and videos add to the homely atmosphere.
Weather permitting, breakfast (which could be anything from a full English made with seasonal local produce to smoked salmon and scrambled eggs) is served on the deck overlooking the recently remodelled garden which has architectural plants, hard landscaping and a concrete enclosure that next year will shelter a hot tub with an en-suite vegetable patch. Marshlands is clearly unsuitable for families and children; but it's all the better for that if you are looking for a cosy, boutique hideaway and want more from the coast than sandcastles and sunbathing.
THE SEASIDE
It takes five minutes by car - or a good 15 minutes if you walk - to reach the windswept pebble beach. Don't bother bringing a bucket and spade (shingle makes rubbish castles), but do go and admire artist Maggie Hambling's homage to Benjamin Britten, a giant rusty shell that seems to have fallen from the sky.
WHEN TO GO
There's nearly always something cultural going on, but things get busy from June (Aldeburgh Festival time) through to August. Even in summer, though, the town never seems to attract the hordes that flock elsewhere. A winter trip can be rewarding: the steely-grey sea and endless shingle look particularly good then.
BOOKING DETAILS
Marshwinds, 32 Saxmundham Road, Aldeburgh, Suffolk (01728 452695; www.marshwinds.co.uk) has two guest rooms, each with its own shower room, and a TV/video and CD player. The single costs £40 for the first night, £35 for each additional night. The double is £80 for the first night (£70 thereafter), regardless of occupancy. Minimum stay two nights at weekends |
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