THE FACTS ABOUT FISHERMAN'S HUTS

England

You can put Whitstable's popularity down to the fashion for unfussy fish dishes and the benefits of Omega 3, coupled with the town's rugged, slow-burning estuary charm and a journey time from London of 90 minutes. Its star turn is the Royal Native Oyster Stores fish restaurant, the success of which led its owners to restore the town's old Hotel Continental, develop the East Quay Shellfish Bar in a 19th-century oyster-grading house, and convert some fisherman's huts from the same era for use as weekend havens. The huts, formerly used for storing cockle farmers' clutter, are in an enclave off the narrow alley that runs parallel to the sea wall. Guests collect keys from the Hotel Continental, a 10-minute walk away. There are eight huts, literally pitch black and with grass-green doors; seven of them face out to sea. (There's also the larger Anderson Shed, where the 'families and couples only' rule is relaxed.) Numbers seven and eight are the newest, family-sized huts; and perhaps because families tend to create their own mess, they are sparsely furnished. Downstairs are two single beds set at right angles on tiles of African slate, with a portable TV for company and the bathroom; a flight of stairs above is the main double bedroom, set in the pitched roof with wooden beams and flooring, framed photos of the area and a mini-bar stocked with complimentary Whitstable ale. A little more character wouldn't have gone amiss, but the huts are snug and romantic. The first-floor view is over the neat ranks of yachts wrapped in kagouls of blue sheeting, around the bay to the Isle of Sheppey, and across the water to the stalking remains of World War II sea forts, still waiting for an invasion that has never come. Outside, the wind makes clattering chimes of the masts, and the Turner-esque sunsets are reflected in pools of water on the mud flats. THE SEASIDE Vault over the sea wall in front of the hut onto the shingle beach; cut neatly into segments by breakwaters, it recently starred in BBC2's Tipping the Velvet, but is otherwise used by windsurfers, sailors, dog walkers and fishermen collecting bait. Turning right will take you through the yacht club to the harbour's seafood stalls; left will take you crunching along to the Royal Native Oyster Stores and the Old Neptune pub on the seafront. WHEN TO GO Unsurprisingly, the huts are booked several months in advance for high season (June-August); but the best time to go is on one of those sharp, bright days at the end of autumn or in winter, when there's an 'r' in the month. Then, the brown and grey hues of sea and sky seem specially laid on for amateur photographers and painters. BOOKING DETAILS Fisherman's Huts, Hotel Continental, 29 Beach Walk, Whitstable, Kent (01227 280280; www.hotelcontinental.co.uk). Huts 7 and 8 cost £300 for two nights Fri and Sat, £115 per night Sun-Thurs. Prices include breakfast, served in the hotel