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The Roseland Peninsula has something of a fairy-tale quality. It is connected with Truro by the gloriously quaint King Harry Ferry, one of only five chain-ferries in England; it has a mild climate that harbours some of Britain's most famous gardens (the Lost Gardens of Heligan is nearby); and its heritage coastline is officially an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The peninsula already had two upmarket hotels, the Tresanton in St Mawes and The Lugger in Portloe, when Driftwood opened about halfway between them; its big selling point is a remote cliff-top location with 180-degree views of the coast, and terraced gardens dropping down to a private beach. Perhaps it's the pines in the garden, but at Driftwood you could imagine that you were in an unspoilt part of the Côte d'Azur.
The building itself is unremarkable: Driftwood's owners, Paul and Fiona Robinson, wanted to improve it with wood cladding but were denied planning permission - although they did get to add the wooden decking where breakfast is served in summer. There are 14 rooms, including four in a new extension, plus a cabin halfway down the cliff that sleeps four; all have sea views except room 9. The 10 rooms in the main buildings aren't huge, but they are comfortable and fresh, with creamy-white, beige and blue furnishings, mirrors framed with bleached wood and lamps fashioned from smoothed pebbles. Room service is limited to drinks (tea or coffee in the morning, tea and cake in the afternoon); massages and other treatments are available.
The nautical-style restaurant serves exquisite evening meals prepared by Rory Duncan, formerly head chef at London's One Aldwych hotel. The cooking combines local, organic ingredients (including fish 'caught in the bay outside your window') with home-made breads, pastas and sauces. Duncan's lasagne of lemon sole, etuvé of leeks, crab and basil velouté is unforgettable.
THE SEASIDE
The hotel's private, sandy beach is a three-minute walk down a set of stone steps; it is a geologist's dream of shale cliffs and rock pools, otherwise only used by walkers on the coastal path. The sea on Cornwall's south coast is calm and good for swimming and snorkelling; if you're lucky you might see dolphins or, in May, basking whales.
WHEN TO GO
Any time, although it is better value in winter, when rates include dinner. The cabin is only available in summer.
BOOKING DETAILS
Driftwood Hotel, Rosevine, nr Portscatho, South Cornwall (01872 580644; www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk). Doubles from £160: half-board in low season, B&B in high season. Minimum two-night stay at weekends. No charge for children sharing parents' room, except for breakfast (£10 for those under 12, £15 for older children). Early supper for children under 12, £10
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