THE FACTS ABOUT IMARET

Greece

Anna Missirian pestered the authorities for seven years before she was granted permission to convert the magnificent monument of Imaret, the Kaval seminary built by Pasha Mehmet Ali in 1817. Prominently positioned in the cobbled Old Town, its multiple archways crowned by more than 100 domes, Imaret is the Greek port of Kavala's most notable landmark. But for decades this oriental anomaly lay in disrepair, forsaken by Egypt, which owns it, and neglected by the Greek Ministry of Culture. In the early 20th century it was a shelter for refugees from Asia Minor. The restoration took only 22 months, a testament to Missirian's dynamism. Entering the walled compound of Imaret is like stepping into another country. There is something of the Moroccan riad about the arched walkways surroundings courtyards filled with orange trees, marble fountains and Arabic inscriptions. Each of the 30 rooms and suites have a distinct personality. Some are harem-style, with built-on wooden beds and velvet cushions heaped on window seats. Others are more like Byzantine chapels, sunlight filtering through skylights in exposed-stone domes. Egyptian chandeliers hang over giant beds draped in emerald brocade. All the bathrooms are spectacular, with sunken marble baths and beaten-cooper sinks. Original features are accented by natural materials, muslin drapes and kilims. Lighting is seductive and technology discreet (flat-screen TVs and stereos are concealed in closets). If you want to leave the world behind, ask for a room overlooking the courtyards. At dusk, when the courtyards shimmer with candlelight, Imaret is almost embarrassingly romantic. Honeymooners head for the pool-house, where steps lead into two cocoon-like pools lined with bronze tiles. Heady sensuality permeates everything, from the young staff on a mission to spoil you to the Eastern-inspired dishes created by chef Georgia Nikopoulou (poached from the Sani Asterias Suites in Halkidiki). Breakfasts are lavish and all served to a classical soundtrack as seagulls swoop past picture windows. CONTACT Kavala, Greece (00 30 2510 620 151; fax: 620 156; www.imaret.com). Doubles from 290 euros