THE FACTS ABOUT ST EUSTATIUS

Once a colonial trading centre, 'Statia' now attracts divers who come for the 200 shipwrecks left over from that heyday, as well as the reefs, walls and breeding colonies. Drier fun is had on the walks in the nearly pristine national park. Colonial nights An ocean view at the Old Gin House (00 599 318 2319; www.oldginhouse.com; doubles from US$135), a nicely restored but dark and musty 17th-century mill. Quirky nights An ocean view at the characterful Kings Well Resort (00 599 318 2538; www.kingswellstatia.com; doubles from US$110). Top table French-Creole on the veranda at Blue Bead (00 599 318 2873), named after the glass currency once in circulation here Best takeaway Sonny's Cantonese Place (00 599 318 2929). History lesson The Historical Foundation Museum's collection dates to the 5th century (00 599 318 2288). Berkel's Plantation (aka the Lynch Plantation Museum; no phone) displays early-20th-century accoutrements. Bring snorkel To Oranje Beach, known for shark and eagle ray sightings. Eco tip Three endangered species nest on Zeelandia Beach. Diving Dive Statia (00 599 318 2435; www.divestatia.com; two-tank dive costs US$75). Take a hike Up the Quill, an extinct volcano (www.statiapark.org). Wow factor The view toward St Kitts from the Botanical Garden. Best sunset spot Watch for a green flash from the Smoke Alley Bar & Grill (00 599 318 2002). Getting about Reddy Car Rental's compact cars (00 599 318 2880; US$45 per day). Hazards In Oranjestad, streets are often unmarked one-ways; elsewhere mostly potholed dirt tracks with more cows, donkeys and goats than cars. More info Visit www.statiatourism.com