THE FACTS ABOUT CULEBRA

Long a favourite with visitors from mainland Puerto Rico, including sun-worshipping artists and developers who are already encroaching on the bird refuge established in 1909. Cosy nights Villa Boheme (00 1 787 742 3508; www.villaboheme.com; doubles from US$95), for cheery rooms and its waterfront patio. Rooms with a view Harbour View Villas, a short walk from both beach and town (00 1 787 742 3855; www.culebrahotel.com; doubles from US$125). Longer stays All Vacation Reservations (00 1 787 742 3112; www.allvacation reservations.com) offers everything from beach shacks to millionaires mansions. Freshest meal The family-run Juanita Bananas (00 1 787 742 3171) has a hydroponic vegetable/herb garden Close second Tropical tastes at Mamacitas (00 1 787 742 0322); lunch at El Eden café (00 1 787 742 0509) Best beach Flamenco. Also easily accessible but more secluded are Carlos Rosario and Zoni. Eco trip Volunteer MayAugust to count endangered leatherbacks (00 1 787 742 0115). Day-trip Pack a picnic for the even tinier Isla Culebrita, with a horseshoe-shaped beach and 120-year-old lighthouse (Tanamá Glass Bottom Boat: 00 1 787 501 0011). Must shop Fango Arte Chaq (00 1 787 556 9308) for wood-panel paintings, photography and jewellery; Butiki (00 1 708 935 2542) for paintings and other crafts Getting around Carlos Jeep Rental (00 1 787 742 3514; www.carlos jeeprental.com; about US$60 per day), or Culebra Water Taxi (00 1 787 360 9807).