THE FACTS ABOUT CARRIACOU

A central ridge tumbles down to small cliffs and sandy beaches. Hillsborough is a blip; many of the 7,000 Kayaks (as the locals call themselves) live in villages in the hills and on the bay. Hotels range from cheap and not-so-cheerful to cool and comfortable. Top night Grand View Hotel is on a hill with panoramic views (00 1 473 443 6348; www.carriacougrand view.com; doubles from US$60). Top table Jensen's Garden Restaurant (00 1 473 443 7979) for good seafood and vegetarian dishes. Wheels Rent a four-wheel-drive. A driver from Sunkey's Auto Rental (00 1 473 443 8382) will meet you at the dock any time of the day or night. Tipple The 140-proof local Jack Iron rum; ice sinks in it. Hazards Bad roads, old maps. Hospital with a view Princess Royal, high above Hillsborough. Must visit Sandy Isle, a pristine offshore cay, is pictured in a lot of Caribbean tourism ads - and justifiably so. Getting there Take the 90-minute Osprey Lines ferry from Grenada (00 1 473 440 8126; www.ospreylines.com). More info www.grenadagrenadines.com