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CARRIACOU
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A central ridge tumbles down to small cliffs and sandy beaches. Hillsborough is a blip; many of the 7,000 Kayaks (as the locals call themselves) live in villages in the hills and on the bay. Hotels range from cheap and not-so-cheerful to cool and comfortable.

Top night
Grand View Hotel is on a hill with panoramic views (00 1 473 443 6348; www.carriacougrand view.com; doubles from US$60).

Top table
Jensen's Garden Restaurant (00 1 473 443 7979) for good seafood and vegetarian dishes.

Wheels
Rent a four-wheel-drive. A driver from Sunkey's Auto Rental (00 1 473 443 8382) will meet you at the dock any time of the day or night.

Tipple
The 140-proof local Jack Iron rum; ice sinks in it.

Hazards
Bad roads, old maps.

Hospital with a view
Princess Royal, high above Hillsborough.

Must visit
Sandy Isle, a pristine offshore cay, is pictured in a lot of Caribbean tourism ads - and justifiably so.

Getting there
Take the 90-minute Osprey Lines ferry from Grenada (00 1 473 440 8126; www.ospreylines.com).

More info
www.grenadagrenadines.com
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