THE FACTS ABOUT DA PUNY

Italy Portofino

It's a cliché, but when in Portofino you simply have to eat on the quayside. The place to do this is Da Puny - if you can get a table. You may not be attended by the eponymous Puny himself, who usually has VIP guests to entertain; but no matter, the food will still be excellent. Particularly good is the pasta with pesto corto - the rich basil, cheese and pinenut sauce lifted with a dash of tomato - and whole fish (usually bream or bass) baked in a casing of sea salt. Order a bottle of one of the simple local white wines, sit back and pretend it's your yacht that's moored in the harbour. CONTACT Da Puny, piazza Martini, Olivetta 5, Portofino (00 39 0185 269037). Open Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun 12.30pm-2pm, 7.30pm-10pm. Closed 15 December to 20 February. Set lunch/dinner menu €70 without wine