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THERMAE DEL PARCO FORTE VILLAGE RESORT

ITALY
The name might sound more like a holiday camp than a smart person's hideaway, but the Forte Village Resort has one of the most beautiful spas in Europe. Set on one side of the four- and five-star complex, it is a veritable oasis of overhanging trees and walkways set around five magical pools. One, the Sea Oil pool, contains great dollops of magnesium which give it an oily texture; two have a higher salt density than the Dead Sea, taking the entire weight of the body once you're in. The pools are the spa's centrepiece, the idea being to bathe in each one in turn from the first, which is heated to 38ºC, down to the 20ºC in the fifth. The whole exercise takes a little more than an hour and is a serious relaxant, especially if the sun is shining, as the only sound is that of running water. The only distraction might be the sight of an injured Premier-League footballer, complete with physiotherapist, come to heal and exercise his muscles, tendons or ligaments. The pools are the ideal location for an underwater shiatsu massage, a speciality of the spa and possibly the closest you will ever get to a stranger in nothing more than a bathing suit. The masseur holds you close to his chest and moves and exercises your limbs against the water while the pool takes your weight. It is an extraordinary experience - as is a massage with Guido - arguably the best masseur in Europe. Book him when you book your accommodation.

CONTACT
Thermae del Parco, Forte Village Resort, Santa Margherita di Pula, 09010 Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy (00 39 070 92171; fax: 921246; www.fortevillageresort.com). Doubles at the Villa del Parco from around £230. Massages from around £74; facials from around £56; shiatsu massages from around £79. Weekend 'Relax' packages from around £236 per person (excluding accommodation). All prices correct at time of going to press.

GETTING THERE
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) flies once daily from Stansted to Alghero from £40 return. It's a three-and-a-half-hour drive from the airport
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